The true power of the ocean can be demonstrated through big waves that roll across the surface. Waves can turn any swim into a thrilling experience, acting like a free rollercoaster with an added sense of danger. Although fantastic, waves can catch even the greatest of swimmers off guard and that is why it’s important to be prepared before any swim in swell. If planning on swimming in the surf read on to learn important tips on how to negotiate waves and get the most enjoyment out of them whilst keeping yourself safe.
Wave type
Before talking about how to swim with waves it is important to understand different wave types that can form. There is mainly three different types of waves that you can find at a beach which are as follows;
Plunging/Dumping wave-
This type of wave is noticeable from its shape as it breaks. This would appear to have a vertical face, with the crest of it barreling over which creates a hollow tube. Although popular with surfers these types of waves are the most ferocious out of the three. They generally hold the most power and can easily hold you underwater and pin you to the bottom if not negotiated correctly. These are usually formed on steep sloping beaches, or reef.
Spilling waves-
A spilling wave can still carry just as much power than a dumping wave but generally is a lot more gentle as it breaks. The crest of the wave spills down from the top eventually turning the entire wave into white water. These are usually formed on gradually sloping beaches. Spilling waves are great for body surfing or stand up surfing.
Surging waves-
Surging waves don’t particularly break in a dramatic way. They can carry alot of power and push up a beach usually catching people off guard, taking them off there feet and ruining their packed lunch.
How to swim past the breakers.
So now we know a little more about different wave types, it’s time to think about how we can actually beat the breaking waves to get out past the impact zone and out the back. Beyond the breaking waves is a place otherwise known as ‘out back’. Although it can still be wavey here, it is generally a lot calmer, away from the breaking waves. To get out here can be the most challenging and tiring part of any swim so it is important to know what to do when swimming out. Using the two techniques below will have you beating any breaker.
The dolphin jump-
Best used in shallow water when it is possible to stand up and literally jump forward over a wave. Essentially when walking out into deeper water, diving over a wave using two feet off the sea bed, aim to have the water travelling underneath you’re torso.
The dolphin is used to by beach lifeguards all over the world for speed and efficiency when entering turbulent water.
The duck dive-
By far the most important and efficient method of beating any wave. This method can be used on spilling and plunging waves and if done correctly will always work. This method is essentially diving underneath the wave before it hits you.
The bigger the wave the further you should dive down, however a good guide would be to dive around 4 – 5 ft down under the surface at the point when a wave is around 5 – 6 ft away from you. Once underwater swim forward, the wave will roll over the top of you and you will pop out the other side.
Swimming out ‘The Back’
Once you’ve made it out the back, it’s time to get some swimming done. It is likely that having just swam past breaking waves you will still be in some chop, with mounds of water moving past you before they break closer to the shore. Although enjoyable, these conditions can prove to be challenging when trying to get a rythm going. The top tips below are techniques that I use when swimming in surf and will help anyone glide through the water if done correctly.
Top tip no.1 – When turning your head for air, over exaggerate the twist on your head so you look up to the sky when inhaling. This will help prevent waves and choppy water being splashed into your mouth and nose when breathing.
Top tip no.2 – Don’t be afraid to breath to just one side. If waves and chop is coming in from your right hand side, breath to your left. This will stop you getting a face full of wave when wanting a lung full of air.
How to swim back to the beach through the breakers
The best and fastest way to get back to the shoreline is by body surfing a wave in. The simplest way to do this is by swimming with a wave towards the shoreline and let it pick you up. You will feel the waves energy behind you, point your arms out straight and enjoy the ride. Be prepared to wipe out using this method.
An alternative option is to wait for a lull in sets, which basically means a break in between waves. This can have you waiting for a few minutes before giving you a big enough break in between waves.
Safety
Swimming in the surf should always be taken with a great deal of caution. If you think the waves look to big or rough for your capability then they probably are. If possible swim at a lifeguarded beach and take a swim buddy with you. Check out Swim safety tips for more information on how to keep yourself safe in the water.
Like always here at Feel Alive Outside, we love to hear your feedback. Please feel free to leave a comment below. Happy Swimming!
